When the white heat of the sun starts to make your brow drip, you want to be drinking cold, thirst-quenching liquids. This might seem to eliminate wine from consideration because with only a few exceptions, the trend in wines these days is to serve them room temperature, or slightly chilled. Standard wisdom has it that cold blunts flavors, limits complexity, and is generally not, er, cool. But wine has changed a lot in the past 30 years, and maybe the standard wisdom should change too.

It's no surprise that white wines taste good cold. After all, wine is grape juice and juice is usually best enjoyed cold. While some of the best Old World wines like white Burgundies, the Montrachets and Meursaults may want only slight chilling, at room temperature many New World wines are almost too bold, too concentrated. Some have too much fruit going on for their own good and benefit from a deeper chill. New World whites, with their tropical and citrus flavors, are a case in point. With some of those flavors held in check you may find them more palatable, more likable -- and more refreshing, for sure.

Chardonnay is a stellar example of a wine to try not just chilled, but downright cold. This classic of white wine varietals is a favorite among growers and vintners alike. Winemakers love the green-skinned Chardonnay because the vines are easy to grow and have high yield. Chardonnay takes oak well, and many higher priced Chardonnays are typically fermented and/or aged in oak barrels. When Chardonnay is aged in oak, it usually picks up vanilla overtones in its aromas and flavor. While the grape is one of few in the world that does not require blending, it may be blended with Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier to produce Champagne . Chardonnay is ready to serve when it is sold but many of the top Chardonnays from California , France , and Australia will continue to improve for up to five years from the time it is bottled.

Originally from the Burgundy area of France , the grape’s popularity has since grown to global proportions. Massive plantings of the varietal have lead to better than a thousand different bottlings produced every vintage. In the USA , Chardonnay has established itself as the pre-eminent choice of white wine drinkers. From Massachusetts to Arizona , and most everywhere in between, Chardonnay has put down deep roots. American Chardonnays, depending on their origin, range from light-bodied, delicate, and crisp to full-bodied, rich, and oaky. Noteworthy and eminently drinkable chardonnays are being produced all over the world. Still, when it comes to value, California chards often win.

Wineries of the cooler appellation areas, including those in the Walla Walla region, Oregon , Monterey and New York produce Chardonnay than tends to have brighter acidity and lighter flavors characterized by an abundance of fruits like apple, pineapple, or the hint of peach. Warmer conditions as in the hotter areas of California , including the glamour areas of Napa and Sonoma , tend toward richer flavors with less fruitiness. These vintages have a wonderful heartiness with honey, vanilla, butterscotch and roasted notes that fill the mouth. While the leaner, crisper versions are currently in vogue, there is probably a style of Chardonnay made in the USA to suit all tastes.

This remarkable popularity of chard (pronounced "shard") has created a backlash in recent years: some drinkers proudly refer to themselves as ABC (Anything But Chardonnay) people. These chardon-naysayers find the wine too popular, the flavor too generic. Some claim California chards have too much oak, others allege that Chardonnay generally does not have enough acidity to stand up to many foods.

But Chardonnay, even the cheap kind (as in "Bartender, I'll have a glass of chardonnay"), is extremely approachable. Drunk young, it lets you taste the sunshine. With some age, nuances and complexities come out that can make it the most sublime drinking experience on the planet.

One of the beauties of Chardonnay is that its full-bodied nature offers great food matching versatility. Chardonnay marries well with salads, pasta, and chicken and with dishes that are served with a lot of butter or a cream sauce. Though wonderful with salmon, most Chardonnays lack the acid to make a perfect match with other seafood and Sauvignon Blanc or Riesling would be the better choice.

Recommended:

Greg Norman Estates Victoria Chardonnay 2002

Landmark Overlook Chardonnay 1995

Walla Walla example: ______________________

Award-winning vintage

Recipe of the Month:

Tarragon Chicken with Chardonnay Sauce

Ingredients:

6 boneless chicken breast halves
1 tbsp. olive oil
I tbsp. lemon juice
2 c. Chardonnay
3 c. heavy cream
1 shallot, diced
2 tbsp. fresh tarragon leaves, chopped paprika, black pepper and salt, to taste.

Method: Dust the chicken breasts with the paprika, salt and black pepper. Heat a heavy skillet until hot, but not smoking and add the olive oil. Sear the chicken breasts in the skillet until brown on both sides. Place in a baking dish and bake at 370 for 20 to 25 minutes.

Heat a saucepan and add the Chardonnay, lemon juice and diced shallot. Reduce to half.

In a separate saucepan, heat the cream on medium heat and reduce to half. Slowly whisk the wine mixture into the reduced cream, blending thoroughly. Add the tarragon. Pour the sauce over the chicken breasts and serve immediately.

Buen provecho!